Unmissable Villa Bianca
Our guide to the local secret gems...
Towns & Villages
MONOPOLI
Around 30km south of Bari, this fortified port town was originally a fishing village, but being on the northern Adriatic coast, it soon came under Venetian control in the 16th century. Today the harbour is large and elaborate with a skirmish of fishing boats, scooters, fishermen untangling their nets, local children running around and elegant yachts. The town is buzzy both day and night with many churches to visit and plenty of restaurants and bars to sample.
POLIGNANO A MARE
Just north of Ostuni, this clifftop town is perched 20 metres above the Adriatic. It lives up to its name and literally could not be any more ‘at sea’. Although renowned for its natural limestone caves and fantastic seafood, it is particularly famous for cliff diving (it has hosted the Red Bull diving competition), outstanding ice cream and Domenico Modugno, who wrote and sang numerous classic songs, including the Volare (later sung by The Gipsy Kings).
OSTUNI
As you drive up winding roads, this northern “White City” is a stunning sight. It’s a medieval hill town, rebuilt by the Greeks after it was destroyed by Hannibal. Wander the narrow back streets and flights of steps getting delightfully lost. Later, head to the highest part of town to see the imposing Archbishop’s palace and Concattedrale with its symmetrical façade and rose window.
BARI BARIVECCHIA (OLD TOWN)
One of the oldest towns in Italy and the capital of Puglia, Bari is one of a kind. The centre feels like a maze of winding streets with religious buildings around every corner. With layer upon layer of historic stories, its style is a mix of Medieval, Byzantine, Romanesque and Baroque. Today, little old ladies still sit outside their houses making fresh pasta, not because it’s appealing to tourists, but because that’s what they have always done. In fact, “pasta alley” is where Jamie Oliver came to learn the art.
LOCOROTONDO
Just south of Alberobella (handy for combining in one day trip), this circular, whitewashed town is one of Puglia’s prettiest, with views over the trulli peppered Valle d’Itria. It’s a fabulous place to spend some time wandering the streets before lunch. Try Locorotondo’s speciality, u tridde: freshly made pasta with pecorino cheese and finely-chopped parsley, that’s cut into small pieces and cooked in a turkey stock. You might like to wash it down with a glass or two of Locorotondo wine.
SAVELLETRI
This pretty seaside resort is surrounded by drystone walls, olive groves and a golf course – a popular stop off for cyclists touring the coastline and those seeking fresh seafood.
Dining
Osteria Perricci Via Orazio Comes
Unbelievably good value, yet the cavatelli ai frutti di mare (short pasta with seafood) is the best in the region.
Monopoli | +39 080 937 2208
Borgo Egnazia, Strada Comunale Egnazia
About 20 miles inland from Monopoli, this expansive upmarket resort hotel has been built to look like a traditional borgo (old town). Set on 50 acres of olive groves, it has several excellent restaurants perfect for a fabulous dining experience – be sure to book. (The resort also has a golf club, beach club, destination spa and an excellent kids club.)
Monopoli | +39 080 225 5000 | borgoegnazia.com
IL QUADRIFOGLIO
Delicious pizzas in the heart of Polignano.
Polignano | pizzeriailquadrifoglio.com
P23
A lovely restaurant right on the waterfront in the centre of Monopoli. Great seafood. You can even rent beach chairs on their brand new deck and go down for a swim between the rocks. They have a lovely cocktail bar and on weekends often have live music.
Monopoli | piventitre.it/en
Carlo Quinto
In the historic centre of Monopoli, along its famous ‘lungo mare’ this tiny restaurant and bar overlooks the Castle of Charles the 5th and the Adriatic sea. They have an excellent menu and delicious antipasti.
Monopoli | facebook.com/carloquintomonopoli
Specchia Sant'Oronzo, Viale, San Francesco D’Assisi
Overlooking Polignano's old town, this Italian restaurant’s walled dining garden is beautifully lit at night, making for a wonderfully atmospheric evening meal.
Polignano a Mare | +39 080 424 0386 | specchiasantoronzo.it | Dinner only
Da Tuccino, Via Santa Caterina
Great for a waterfront lunch of fresh seafood.
Polignano a Mare | +39 080 424 1560 | tuccino.it | Closed Mondays & Sunday evenings
Fly Bar
A great place to grab something quick and have a glass of prosecco at sunset. It's carved into the famous cliffs of Polignano and has spectacular views.
Polignano a Mare | Vico di Calaporto | +39 080 809 6680
Le Antiche Mura
A quaint restaurant at the entrance of the old town with amazing food. It's hidden away but the owners are lovely and the seafood is always very fresh.
Polignano a Mare | ristoranteantichemura.it
Ristorante Donna Gina
Romantic setting serving beautifully presented seafood. Plenty of raw fish options if that’s yyour thing.
Polignano a Mare | donnagina.it
Terezza Monachile
Modern seafood restaurant with incredible views.
Polignano a Mare | terrazzemonachile.com
Osteria del Tempo Perso, Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale
If it’s good enough for Antonio Carluccio... Evenings only.
Ostuni | +39 0831 304819 | osteriadeltempoperso.com | Closed Mondays
La Sommità, Via Scipione Petrarolo
Sweeping views out to sea, a cavernous wine bar and a Michelin starred restaurant. Be sure to book.
Ostuni | +39 0831305925 | lasommita.it
Masseria Il Frantoio, Strada Statale
A beautiful masseria outside Ostuni with an al fresco courtyard surrounded by olive trees.
Ostuni | +39 083 133 0276 | masseriailfrantoio.it
Osteria Gia Sotto L’arco, Corso Vittorio Emanuele
An elegant and central restaurant where dinner is a ceremonial event worth starving the entire day for.
Ostuni | +39 0831 996286 | giasottolarco.it | Closed Sunday evenings
Osteria del Porto
With an outdoor patio sitting right above the quaint little port, Osteria del porto has great local seafood and a fantastic dining experience.
Savalettri | osteriasavelletri.it
Da Pino e Vincenzo
A tiny sea-urchin shop on the Savelletri harbour where fresh urchins are cut open each morning.
Savelletri
Pescheria 2 Mari, Piazza Amati (Savelletri seafront)
A seafront eatery with a pretty, plant filled dining terrace. There’s no kitchen, so instead they serve just-caught fish as sushi – wash it down with a bottle of bubbly.
Savelletri | +39 080 482 9161
Best Beaches
Lido Le Palme
A well run, swanky beach club with full restaurant service on the beach.
lepalmebeachclub.it
Lido bambu
Comfy sunloungers, a good restaurant and beach service.
Monopoli | lidobambu.it
Santo Stefano Beach, near Monopoli
A popular coastal area with various sandy beaches, small coves and cliffs. There’s also a medieval castle and abbey nearby if you get restless. For lunch, pop into Porto Ghiacciolo for great value spaghetti, clams or sautéed mussles, washed down with a cold beer.
Porto Ghiacciolo +39 346 223 7762
Lido Bosco Verde, near Ostuni
A great beach with several bars and an excellent fish restaurant.
Marina di Ostuni
Home to lots of sandy beaches with crystal clear water.
La Dolce Riva Beach Club, near Otranto
Many of the Puglian beaches have their own beach clubs. Some have waitered sunbeds, restaurants and cafés as well as water sports. There are literally 100s of good ones, but try to visit the fabulous La Dolce Riva, near Otranto. It’s advisable to book ahead during July and August.
+39 320 011 2729 | dolceriva.it
Laghi Alimini, just north of Otranto
Two lakes in the pine woods - Alimini Piccolo and Alimini Grande. The larger lake has a small inlet to the coast where the sandy beaches are lovely.
San Cataldo, near Lecce
Just 12km from Lecce, this resort has a great choice of beaches (many with sunbeds and cafés).
Torre dell’Orso, near Lecce
This stretch of coastline has dramatic white cliffs behind and sand below the feet.
Capo d’Otranto
The easternmost point of Italy, where there are many inlets with good beaches.
Marina di Pescoluse, south coast
At the southern most tip of Puglia you’ll find 6km of fabulous beach, the shallow waters are particularly good for children and inexperienced swimmers, plus there are beach clubs and activities stretching along the coast.
Do & See
DireFareGustare - Cooking Classes
Learn to cook the most authentic Puglian dishes and pair with delicious local wines. A fantastic experience.
direfaregustare.com
Il Frantolio di D’Amico Pietro, near Ostuni
This olive oil mill offers surprisingly engaging tours; it’s a co-op where families and farms can bring their harvests for pressing and producing extra virgin olive oil.
+39 080 444 4671 | ilfrantolio.it | Closed Sundays
Giardini di Pomona, Cisternino
Wander these amazing gardens, home to 283 different varieties of fig.
+39 080 431 78 06 | igiardinidipomona.it | Closed Thursdays
Snorkeling & Diving
The small coral reefs and sea grass are great for snorkeling and diving fans. Check out the Padi website to find a dive centre suitable for your experience. You can take scuba diving taster courses or full padi courses with Scuba Diving Di Levanto Stefano, in Otranto.
padi.com | Otranto: +39 0836 80 27 40 or scubadiving.it
Cycling & Mountain biking
Puglia is great for cyclists, with both easy and challenging tracks and very little traffic. Apulia Bike Tours have some great bikes to rent and offer guided bike rides.
apuliabiketours.com
Torre Coccaro Golf Club
The 9 hole course winds its way around olive groves and offers some great sea views (Par 27, 1,109m).
+39 080 482 9310 | masseriatorrecoccaro.com
San Domenico Golf Club, near Monopoli
Home to the PGA European Challenge Tour Grand Final, the 18 hole course features great sea views, lots of bunkers and some testing Adriatic Sea breezes (Par 72, 6,300m).
+39 0804829200 | golfpuglia.it
Acaya Golf Club, Strada Comunale di Acaya
An 18 hole course with fabulous views. The opening holes have a heathland feel, and the back nine has plenty of water (Par 71, 6,192m).
+39 083 286 1385 | acayagolfresort.com
Vair Spa, Borgo Egnazia, near Monopoli
Borga Egnazia Hotel’s on site spa is amongst the best in southern Italy. Treatments use local herbs and the menu is seemingly endless. There’s also a sauna, Turkish bath and hair salon.
+39 080 225 5000 | borgoegnazia.com
Zoo Safari, Fasano
A drive-through safari park with a sea lion aquarium, roller coasters and water rides. Just outside Alberobello.
+39 080 441 4455 | zoosafari.it
Grotte Castellana
Just north of Alberobello, this spectacular network of caves is not to be missed.
+39 080 4998221 | grottedicastellana.it | Seasonal opening hours – see website for details & booking.
Giardini Pistola
Charming gardens with mazes, water features and a trampoline for children. Designed by fellow Somerset-based business Urquhart Hunt. You can pre-order a family picnic to enjoy in the gardens.
Fasano | giardinipistola.com
Wine & Vine
Puglia is best known for three red grapes: Nero di Troia, grown primary in the north around Bari; Pimitive, from two main areas in the centre; and Negroamaro in the south. As for white grapes, it’s too hot for most of them. This doesn’t put the Puglians off though, the city of Bari alone consumes more Champagne than Japan. Tenute Chiaromonte, near Bari
Tenute Chiaromonte, near Bari
If you book ahead you can walk in the ancient Primitivo vineyards with producr Nicola Chiaromonte, and have an alfresco snack as you taste the wines.
+39 080 768 156 | tenutechiaromonte.com
Polvanera Estate
Located inland from Monopoli, this vineyard offers wine tastings and visits to the bare-walled cellar - a great way to really see the terroir. Follow the tour with one of the best home cooked meals you can have in Puglia (must be booked ahead).
+39 080 758 900 | cantinepolvanera.it | Closed Sundays
Enoteca II Tralcio, Monopoli
This shop is the place to stock up on wines from Puglia and beyond.
+39 080 930 1366 | enotecailtralcio.it | Reduced opening hours on Sundays
Masseria Li Veli
Amazing wine tours and paired lunches.
liveli.it/en
Please call first to check restaurants and museums are open, and check the relevant government guidance before travelling.
No responsibilty can be accepted by Scott Williams for any issues that may arise as a result of the enclosed recommendations and information.