Unmissable Ithaca
Our guide to the local secret gems...
Towns & Villages
VATHY
Ithaca’s capital and largest settlement is Vathy, on the south east coast of the island. Its delightful red-roofed houses are set amidst enchanting scenery at the end of the deep closed bay of Molos. There’s a large choice of places to eat and dining is a casual affair. The town can be very hot during the day, so we recommend coming here for evening meals rather than lunch - just remember that Greeks eat late, often after 10pm. While it is very easy to visit Vathy by boat, the winding roads mean car journeys can take a long time.
KIONI
On the north east coast, pretty Kioni is one of Ithaca’s best kept secrets. The village is draped around a verdant hillside spilling down to a gorgeous miniature harbour. Tavernas, bars and flower-decked buildings will have you reaching for your camera.
FRIKES
The waterfront tavernas in Frikes are a delight – some of the best on the island. Take your pick, then relax and watch fishing boats and yachts sail into the harbour.
STAVROS
Located 16km north of Vathy, at the foot of the Neritos Hills, this 16th century village is worth an afternoon stroll. Look out for the beautiful Sotiris Church and the handful of remaining Venetian houses. It’s within easy reach of Polis Beach, with a few handy shops and tavernas.
PLATREITHIAS
A sleepy little village with little more than a few houses and one rather popular restaurant. Located on the far north of the island, it is also a good spot from which to go walking.
Dining
Fish Tavern ‘Poseidon’
Family run taverna next to the Maritime-Folklore Museum, serving traditional meals.
Vathy | +30 697 378 0189
Kalkanis
A simple town taverna serving typical local dishes and spit-roast meat.
Vathy | +30 2674 033233
Spathis Café-Bar Patisserie
Some of the best puddings on Ithaca are actually cakes or sweets from the local bakeries – this is one of the oldest on the island.
Vathy
Mylos Crêperie
Crêpes, cocktails and funky tunes.
+30 2674 033458
Vathy
Chani bar and Taverna, near Vathy
Teetering on the 680 yard ridge connecting North and South Ithaca, this taverna is great for combining sundowners with a fantastic sea view. Located on the Vathy to Stavros road.
Near Vathy | +30 694 248 7436 | facebook.com/gerasimoulalivani
Rozes
A buzzy little café bar that serves great cocktails and something a bit different to the usual Greek fare accompanied by cool, laid back music.
Vathy | +30 267 403 2450
Calypso Taverna
A favourite, right on the water - we recommend the stuffed vine leaves, but you can also expect calamari, grilled sardines, Greek salad and more.
Kioni | +30 2674 031066 | calypso.kioni.gr
Mills
Traditional Greek cooking with an emphasis on seafood - a wide variety of fish is brought in daily.
Kioni | +30 2674 031789 | mills-restaurant.com
Mythos
Pretty harbourfront position, friendly family run taverna and simple typical Greek fare.
Kioni | +30 267 403 1122
Lizzy’s
Super location for lunch or dinner, delicious Mediterranean food and cocktails at the rooftop bar too!
Kioni | +30 267 403 1523
Spavento Cafe Bar
A perfect spot to have a coffee, ouzo, drinks with friends, a cocktail or beer any time of the day or night. Great people watching.
Kioni | +30 2674 031427
En Plo Roof Bar
End the night here, overlooking the bay.
Kioni | +30 2674 031520
Odysseus Restaurant
A family taverna on the sea with good seafood, at good prices. It’s fairly basic but keeping it simple works.
Frikes | +30 2674 03173312 | ithacagreece.com/odysseus-restaurant/odysseus-restaurant.html
MYRTIA
A brand new restarant from the owners of the old Rementzo restaurant. Serving delicious seasonal, fresh and local dishes. More expensive than run of the mill tavernas but totally worth it. All of their veggies are sourced from their gardens.
+30 698 430 8067 | facebook.com/people/Myrtia_ithaca/100077568760562
Ageri
Right on the water, a lovely spot for the evenings.
Frikes | ageri-ithaca.com | +30 2674 031465
Dodoni
A pleasant coffee shop that’s excellent for ice cream and cakes – there is waterside seating overlooking the harbour.
Frikes | +30 2674 031445
Margarita’s Café
This coffee shop is frequented by the whole island and has been serving homemade sweet treats since the 1960s. You must try their homemade ice creams.
+30 6947 869240 | Stavros | ithacagreece.com/Margarita/Margarita.htm
Yefuri
This great little restaurant is good if you’re looking for a change from traditional Greek tavernas, the menu includes salads, calamari, burgers, brunch dishes, flourless chocolate cake… Find it at the crossroads just in front of the track up to Homer’s School, and book ahead.
Platreithias | +30 2674 031131 | ithacagreece.com/yefuri/yefuri.html | Open Friday & Saturday evenings & Sunday daytime
Varka
Visit by RIB from Ithaca, bit of a trek but well worth it for the food, spectacular journey and scenery.
Kalamos | +30 2646 046008
Best Beaches
Sarakiniko Beach, south east coast
A dreamy cove near Vathy - have lunch in town, potter round the shops, then come here to cool off.
Filiatro Beach, south east coast
A popular white pebble beach for those staying in and around Vathy, Filiatro has lots of shade a simple café and a delicious restaurant - a good place to spend the whole day. You will also find water skiing, wind surfing, spear fishing and scuba diving facilities here – lessons and equipment are available.
Gidaki Beach, south east coast
Our favourite beach, Gidaki is AMAZING. Soft white pebbles with ancient olive groves giving lots of shade. There is a wonderful pop up Robinson Crusoe style cantina on the beach, serving basic but good food (during July and August only). If you’re into Instagram, this is the place to take your shots for maximum jealousy-factor back home. It’s east of Vathy and you can only get there by boat or on foot (which we wouldn’t recommend).
Dexia Beach, south east coast
Just west of Vathy and a favourite with the locals – no sand, but lots of shade thanks to ancient olive groves.
Loutsa Beach, south east coast
One of the two organised beaches on the island, with a little taverna. Just west of Vathy.
Cemetery Beach, north east coast
This tiny little beach opposite Kioni has a small cantina serving good fresh seafood and delicious beer. It opens daily for lunch and one evening a week for Friday dinners (book ahead). During the day, bring your boat and enjoy snorkelling in the bright blue bay. It is a local’s beach, so facilities are fairly basic, and you won’t hear another English voice.
Kourvoulias Bay, north east coast
Three separate pebbled beaches make up the Kourvoulias: Proto Kourvoulia, Deftera Kourvoulia and Trita Kourvoulia. Great for families, they are located on the coastal road from Frikes to Kioni.
Afales Bay, north west coast
In the north west, Afales Bay has wild, untamed beaches of bright white sand and pebbles. It’s 3km from Frikes, but some can only be reached by boat. This was where Charles and Diana swam during their honeymoon on Ithaca.
Polis Beach, north west coast
A fine white pebble beach with clear water – good for families. You can arrive by car or the energetic can walk from Stavros.
Agios Ioannis Beach, west coast
One of the more popular beaches, Agios has views across to Kefalonia, as well as wonderful snorkelling and swimming around the cape. Migrating turtles have been seen here.
Do & See
Loizos Cave
Located in the bay of Polis, near Stavros village, this cave yielded up shards carved with inscriptions testifying to the worship of Artemis, Hera and Athena. Better yet, it has also yielded twelve tripods similar to those which the Phaeacians gave to Odysseus. A fragment of a clay mask with an inscription dedicated to Odysseus was also found here.
Watersports
For lessons or extra equipment, you’ll find water skiing, wind surfing, spear fishing and scuba diving at Filiatro Beach.
Walking
In the lush valleys and rugged hills, hiking trails will lead you to hidden ruins and stunning sea views. There is a particularly lovely walk from the mountain village of Anoghi back to Kioni – it takes about 2 hours. If you like to have a guide, contact Ester Van Zuylen of Island Walks.
+30 6944 990458 | islandwalks.com
Yoga
Ingrid Gottschalk will come to your villa for an individual private yoga session.
+30 6980 918604 | +30 26740 31463 | itha108.com
Exogi & Anoghi Villages
Located in the north of the island, Exogi and Anoghi are two crumbling villages on twin capes, with views across the archipelago. If you don’t suffer from vertigo, ride up to the monastery on the summit above Exogi to see the 360 degree view. Alternatively, visit Anoghi’s 17th century church with its superb frescoes. (There’s a great café next door, too.)
Marmarospilia (The Cave of Nymphs)
Homer’s Odyssey records that this was where Ithaca’s king, Odysseus, stored the treasure of gold, precious stones and other luxury goods he had obtained in his epic ten year struggle to return home. The view to the sea is breathtaking and the silence is as timeless as Homer. Located north of Vathy, near Dexia Beach.
Kathara Monastery
The Kathara Monastery has a unique view of the island from its bell tower. On the horizon you can make out the mountains of Akarnania, the Echinades islets, the peaks of Zakynthos, the eastern coast of Cephalonia and even the entrance to the Gulf of Patras. There are also some modern frescoes worth seeing.
Festivities
In August, you can enjoy the festivities of the Panighiria and The Wine Festival. Both take place at Perahori, the small mountain village above Vathy.
On the Water
Kioni Boat Hire
George’s boats are 10, 15 and 25HP. There is also a 90HP boat for those with a licence.
+30 6972 594090 | kioniboathire@yahoo.com
Vathy Boat Hire
Contact Stephanos at Capt Yannis.
+30 2674 033311 | +30 2674 033312
Polis Bay
Contact Lucky.
+30 6979 581205
Island Hopping
Atokos
A tiny deserted island which is fabulous for snorkelling.
Kefalonia
The nearest inhabited and easy to reach island, Kefalonia is just 45 minutes away by ferry (or quicker if you charter your own boat). We recommend the delightful west coast harbour village of Assos, dramatically set at the foot of the hill. Travel a few miles further along the coast, and you’ll find Myrtos, the island’s most famous beach: two thirds of a mile of fine pebbles and emerald sea.
In the north east, lovely Fiskardo has been described as the St Tropez of the Greek Islands. It’s relatively easy to reach from Ithaca and makes a lovely lunch stop.
Please call first to check restaurants and museums are open, and check the relevant government guidance before travelling.
No responsibilty can be accepted by Scott Williams for any issues that may arise as a result of the enclosed recommendations and information.