Unmissable Istria
Our guide to the local secret gems...
Towns & Villages
MOTOVUN
Situated in central Istria, above the Mirna River, Motovun is one of Istria’s best preserved medieval fort towns. The picturesque old town has some of the area’s best panoramic views and is in the heart of truffle country. It also known for hosting an annual film festival, during which the town square becomes an open air cinema. Not to be missed.
ZAMASK
Rural hamlets don’t get much sleepier than Zamask, which has just 19 permanent residents and breathtaking hilltop views across Istria. In the 16th century, the Austrian-Venetian border passed directly through Zamask, meaning neighbouring villagers lived in different states. It remained that way until the fall of the Venetian Republic in 1797. Today the village has two churches – both worth visiting.
LIVADE
Home to one of the region’s best truffle restaurants and an annual truffle festival. Located a 10 minute drive from Motovun and a 15 minute drive from Zamask.
VISNJAN
Despite being famed for its world class observatory, Visnjan is also a traditional village with ancient town walls, a beautiful Baroque church, a central square and far reaching views to the distant sea.
PULA
Sitting on the southern coast, Istrian capital, Pula, is a large red roofed working port town with a wealth of Roman history just waiting to be discovered. In terms of present day activity, you’ll find a thriving café culture, a lively arts scene and a marina popular with the yacht crowd. There’s also a fresh produce market for stocking up on tasty ingredients.
POREC
This popular resort town sits on the north west coast of Istria, around 35 minutes’ drive from Motovun. The old town is wonderfully picturesque, with grand waterfront Venetian architecture and grid-like streets that hark back to its Roman origins. It swells with visitors during the summer months, but is well worth a visit for its 6th century UNESCO listed Euphrasian Basilica, one of Europe’s finest intact examples of Byzantine art. While you’re here, stroll the promenades, gaze across the lagoons and relax on the pebble beach (or head along the coast in search of beaches with watersports).
ROVINJ
One of Istria’s most admired coastal towns, the fishing port of Rovinj combines steep cobbled streets with sleepy piazzas and pastel hued medieval homes. It’s reminiscent of Burano, in Venice, and is topped by the Baroque Church of St. Euphemia. Having become a popular tourist destination, it now offers a wealth of galleries, museums, restaurants and cocktail bars. While you stroll around the town, be sure to seek out the tumbling Grisia street, an informal open air gallery where local artists display and sell their works. Be aware that it can get very busy during summer.
NOVIGRAD
Some describe the coastal town of Novigrad as Croatia’s answer to Portofino. Despite its small size, Novigrad is known for its foodie scene, especially the excellent seafood. The local speciality is kapešante (scallops). Don’t miss the bustling fish market, surrounded by cafés. Being on the north west coast, the historic old town pairs well with a beach visit – head just outside town for shingle shores and calm waters.
HUM
Said to be the smallest town in the world, this tiny inland settlement was originally built as a 12th century Venetian castle. Eventually, its walls and towers were converted into homes. Today there is a restaurant and a bar as well. It sits on a hill in the centre of Istria, with fabulous views and forest walks all around.
ROC
Sitting high above the verdant countryside, this medieval town has just 170 inhabitants living its virtually unchanged medieval buildings. It’s dominated by a 15th century bell tower, belonging to one of three churches within the town walls.
MOSCENICKA DRAGA
This small east coast town tumbles down a forested hill to a wonderful pebble beach perfect for swimming. Culture vultures will appreciate its seafaring history at the Maritime Museum and there are some excellent restaurants to make the most of that freshly caught seafood.
GROZNJAN
Despite being a beautiful Venetian hilltop village with a history dating back to the 12th century, Groznjan was once crumbling swiftly into decline. That is until the 1960s, when sculptor Aleksandar Rukavina and a small group of artists discovered its picturesque medieval appeal and set up their studios in its empty buildings. Today, Groznjan is known as the “Town of Artists” and visitors flock to view the informal street galleries, artists’ studios and music performances that make this place so unique. Great for history, souvenir shopping and fabulous views across the countryside.
Restaurants
Konoba Mondo
This cute, turquoise shuttered traditional taverna offers delightful homemade pasta with local truffle sauce.
Motovun | +385 52 681 791 | Open daily
Montona Gallery
A welcoming pizzeria with endless countryside views from the terrace.
Motovun | +385 52 681 754
Pod Napun
With views as mesmerising as these, many may rest on their culinary laurels. Not so here, the food is delicious, the wines are local, and the service is attentive. Well worth a visit.
Motovun | +385 52 681 767 | antique-motovun.com.hr | Open daily
Zigante Restaurant
Renowned dining in an elegant rural restaurant with an outdoor dining terrace. The owner, Giancarlo Zigante (and his dog Diana), discovered the world’s largest recorded white truffle, weighing 1.31kg. The owners are well known and also have a truffle shop in Motovun. Livade | +385 52 664 302 | restaurantzigante.com
Agroturizam Selo Mekiši
(Traditional Konoba with superb beef fiorentina cooked on the bbq) We love this place, as great food and very simple. Request a table outside. Requires a reservation
Vižinada | +385 52 446 127
Tavena Borgonja
Traditional taverna, pizzeria and grill with a leafy dining terrace, a warm welcome and hearty portion sizes. Good for pasta, steaks, seafood and, of course, truffle dishes.
Visnjan | +385 52 449 290 | Closed Mondays
Pizzeria Al Ritrovo
A relaxed local restaurant serving large, delicious pizzas and good pasta – try the gnocchi. With alfresco seating in the villa piazza, it also makes a lovely spot for your morning coffee.
Visnjan | +385 52 449 307 | pizzeria-alritrovo.com | Closed Tuesdays
Old River Restaurant
Traditional Restaurant on the main road between Motovun and Buzet – Good food and friendly service at reasonable prices.
Rusnjak | +385) 091 166 2111| Facebook.com/Old-River
Stari Podrum
Superb Traditional restaurant, and right next to the Kozlovich Winery, so stop here for a wine tasting first. Requires a reservation – Closed Wednesday’s
Momjam | +385 52 779 152 | staripodrum.info
Viking
Very good and simple seafood restaurant next to the Limski Canal. Requires a reservation
Kanfanar | +385 52 449 119
Hrast
Smart Seafood restaurant on the outskirts of Poreč overlooking the bay. Requires a reservation.
Porec | restoranhrast.eu | +385 52 433 797
Konoba Nono
Superb traditional restaurant and probably the best for kids, as it has a nice garden with lots of animals. Requires a reservation.
Umag | konoba-nono.com | +385 52 740 160
La Parenzana Restaurant
Traditional restaurant but offering a slightly more modern take on Istrian Cuisine. Requires a reservation.
Volpia | laparenzana-restaurant.hr | +385 52 777 458
San Servolo Brewery and Restaurant
Local Modern Brewery with excellent steak tartare. Requires a reservation.
Momjanska 7 | +385 52 772 505 | sanservoloresort.com/gastronomy
Farabuto
A locals’ favourite with lots of Istrian delicacies, homemade bread and a fresh catch of the day straight from the fishermen’s boats. It’s located about 1.5km outside the centre, in a relaxed residential area.
Pula | +385 52 386 074
Bistro Alighieri
Good food and a great location by the amphitheatre. There’s plenty of outdoor seating in the square and a good range of tasty seafood on the menu - try the calamari.
Pula | +385 52 381 984 | alighieri-pula.com
Milan
One of Pula’s best fine dining restaurants; the seafood is exquisite, and the wine cellar holds 700 variations.
Pula | +385 52 300 200 | milan1967.hr
Fresh
An ideal sandwich and salad bar for appeasing hungry children or for grabbing a quick bite by the water. There’s something for everyone, including vegetarians and vegans – try the falafel.
Pula | +385 52 418 888 | Open Monday-Friday
Hrast
A beautiful seafood restaurant with postcard views of the old town and a prime position for waterfront sunsets.
Porec | +385 52 433 797 | restoran-hrast.com
Sv. Nikola
With its great location overlooking the harbour, be sure to choose an alfresco table at this elegant Istrian restaurant. The beef with tagliatelle with truffles comes highly recommended.
Porec | +385 52 423 018 | svnikola.com
Monte
As Croatia’s first Michelin star restaurant, Monte has received widespread acclaim for its “creative and occasionally theatrical cooking… using modern techniques to create beautifully presented, flavour-filled dishes.” Although there are now a total of three Michelin star restaurants in Croatia, Monte remains the only one in Istria (the others are in Sibenik and Dubrovnik).
Rovinj | +385 52 830 203 | monte.hr
Meneghetti
A beautiful wine estate with a great restaurant and wine/olive oil shop. You can also purchase a day pass for their spa facilities.
Rovinj | +385 52 528 800 | meneghetti.hr/en/
The Adriatic Bar
Great for breakfast and afternoon drinks. Choose a table outside in the piazza.
Rovinj | maistra.com
Puntalina
Come here for beautiful sunsets and delicious seafood. The restaurant is in a fantastic location right on the rocks.
Rovinj | puntulina.eu/
Gianinno
The oldest fish restaurant in town.
Rovinj | restoran-giannino.com
Barba Danilo
Small almost tapas style plates of Istrian delicacies. A 5 minute drive out of town.
Rovinj | barbadanilo.com/
Agli Amici Rovinj
2 star Michelin star restaurant at the new marina with beautiful views of the town. About 15 min walk from the centre.
Rovinj | maistra.com
Valentino Champagne Bar
Perched right on the water, champagne and cocktail bar.
Rovinj | valentino-rovinj.com/
Konoba Cok, Sv. Antona
An unassuming but excellent Istrian restaurant known for its seafood, particularly the fish carpaccio. You’ll also find homemade bread and desserts, as well as excellent Istrian olive oils and wines.
Novigrad | +385 52 757 643 | enovigrad.info/riblji-restoran-cok
Damir & Ornella, Zidine
Well located in the heart of the old town, this small, cosy restaurant has a strong culinary reputation and emphasis on quality seafood. They tend to offer fixed tasting menus, which might include raw scallops, homemade gnocchi, crab and homemade puddings.
Novigrad | +385 52 758 134 | damir-ornella.com | Closed Mondays
Vitriol
A popular waterfront café bar with a wide range of fruit juices, coffees, sweet treats and cocktails – come for the stunning sunsets.
Novigrad | 385 52 758 270 | vitriolcaffe.com | Open daily
Macumba Beach Club & Grill, near Novigrad
Popular with a young crowd, this beach bar is great for a spot of lunch and a refreshing swim in the Adriatic. It’s all pretty relaxed – burgers, cocktails, a beach platform, plenty of shade and steps into the water.
Novigrad | +385 98 327 558
Humska Konoba
Hum’s solitary taverna is, thankfully, a good one. Enjoy traditional Istrian meals and a drop of tasty biska (local grappa) on the panoramic view terrace. Kids and designated drivers will appreciate the kroštuli (crispy fried dough buried in sugar). Perfect for a long lunch.
Hum | +385 91 600 3456 | hum.hr/humskakonoba | Closed Mondays
Johnson Restaurant
Opened in the 1960s and named after its original proprietor, Johnson’s is now run by the Jurdana family, who take great pride in maintaining the restaurant’s emphasis on fresh, high quality seafood. There is also an excellent Croatian wine list. It is located just outside Moscenicka, on the slopes of Mount Ucka.
Moscenicka Draga| +385 (51) 737 578 | johnson.hr | Open Thursday-Sunday
Rocka Konoba
This beautiful taverna has windows overflowing with flowers, tables sitting in the shade of ancient trees and a menu showcasing the region’s best produce – from local sheep’s’ cheese to home grown herbs and, of course, truffles.
Roc | +385 91 582 8129 | Closed Mondays
See & Do
Visnjan Observatory
Having originally resided in the village centre, the observatory was relocated to nearby Tican (3km away) due to increasing light pollution. As one of the world’s best observatories, it has been prolific in discovering asteroids and minor planets. Take a tour, view the telescope, hear lectures and get close to real pieces of meteorite.
+385 91 449 1788 | astro.hr
Pula Amphitheatre
In the heart of town, this beautifully preserved Roman structure dates to 27 BC and is in such good condition that it still regularly hosts concerts and sports events.
Pula | +385 52 219 028 | ami-pula.hr/en/collections-on-otherlocations/amphitheater/amphitheater
Triumphal Arch of the Sergii
Also known as the ‘Golden Gate’, this Roman archway was erected in 27 BC to commemorate three brothers from the powerful Roman Sergii family. It originally stood behind a naval gate but can be found today in Portarata Square.
Pula
Sveta Srca Church
Built in 1908 and used as a warehouse after WWII, this church has an unusual past and present. It was renovated during 2010 and now operates as a beautiful, light filled exhibition space.
Pula | +385 52 351 300 | ami-pula.hr/dislocirane-zbirke/sveta-srca
Museum of Contemporary Art
Just off the harbour, the town’s old printing house is now a contemporary art museum displaying rotating exhibitions of late 20th century works.
Pula | +385 52 423 205 | msu-istre.hr/pocetna
Church of St. Euphemia
Also known as the Basilica of St. Euphemia, this Baroque three nave church was built in 1736 and is the largest Baroque building in Istria.
Rovinj | +385 52 815 615 | zuparovinj.hr
Olive Oil Tasting, Livade
Klaudio Ipša produces award winning extra virgin olive oil – visit his beautiful estate to learn about and taste this delicious local produce.
+385 52 66 40 10 | ipsa-maslinovaulja.hr/gb
Istrian Ethnographic Museum, Pazin
For an insight into Istrian life over the centuries, few can beat the Ethnographic Museum. Appropriately housed in a traditional castle in Pazin, the museum has 4,000 artefacts including furniture, national dress, agricultural tools and pottery.
+385 52 622 220 | emi.hr/intro.php | Closed Mondays
Pazin Cave
Below the town and castle, there is an enormous underground cave with a lake inside. The tour is quite grass roots – you’ll need to be sure footed and comfortable if you run into the odd frog along the way. Helmets are provided, and kids will love the sense of adventure.
Pazin Waterfall
Hard to find but worth the effort, Pazin Waterfall is fed by a freshwater stream and perfect for swimming. Once you arrive in Pazin, drive through town towards New Pazin. Between the two, take a left off the main road down a dirt track. You’ll need the coordinates for your Sat Nav. 45.403206, 13.901583
Walking & Biking
Istria’s countryside is dense, wild and perfect for exploring. Travel writer Kevin Rushby described a trail from Motovun where “butterflies cloud the air, deer spring away through meadows, and frogs freckle the ponds and puddles… magnificent walking country”. There are countless walking and cycling routes to choose from, with something for every ability. From Zamask there are walking routes to Kascerge (4km) and Motovun (9km). For cyclists, the disused Parenzana railway line, which originally ran from Porec to Trieste, is a popular option. istra.hr/en/attractions-and-activities/sport/trekking istra.hr/en/attractions-and-activities/sport/cycling
Vela Draga Canyon
One of Croatia’s most spectacular natural wonders, Vela Draga is a deep forested gorge punctuated by great jagged shards of limestone, 100 metres tall. Situated in the Ucka National Park, you can follow the 2km Vela Draga educational trail to learn about the area’s geological phenomena and arrive at sensational lookout points. Alternatively, experienced adrenaline junkies may prefer to get up close to the columns with a spot of rock climbing.
pp-ucka.hr/en | climbistria.com/climbing-locations/croatia/vela-draga
Mirna River – Swimming & Kayaking
Explore Istria’s longest river – hop in a kayak and paddle downstream or just jump right in! There are various swimming points and kayak companies across Istria.
Istralandia Aquapark
Kids waterpark heaven with endless slides and pools, including a wave machine. There’s a green space for lounging, restaurants and cafés for sustenance. It’s handily located just north west of Novigrad.
+385 52 866 900 | istralandia.hr/en
Lungomare
Some lovely concept stores, cafes, and bars along this shopping promenade. About 15 mins walk from town.
Rovinj
Best Beaches
Lone Bay, Rovinj
This succession of shingle coves is one of Rovinj’s most popular beach hangouts. It’s interspersed with angular rock promontories which shelve into the sea. Active types can hire boats and go windsurfing, plus there are a couple of handy beach bars.
Monte Beach, Rovinj
A series of rocky beach outcrops accessed on foot from Rovinj old town. Good for swimming and convenient for combining with sightseeing.
Kurent Bay, Rovinj
Located 1.5km from Rovinj town, this shingle beach is shaded by the surrounding conifer forest and offers good swimming. There’s a snack bar and a large meadow nearby for playing frisbee, badminton or volleyball.
Karpinjan Beach, Novigrad
A curved sweep of shingle beach looking on to a calm shallow bay. There are sunbeds shaded by pavilions and pine trees, showers and a beach bar. Novigrad is just 1km along the coast.
Brulo Beach, Porec
Just south of Porec, shingle Brulo Beach gazes onto a sheltered Blue Flag bay. Watersports are available and there are sunbeds and umbrellas to rent, plus a few eateries nearby.
Borik Beach, near Porec
To the north of Porec, Borik Beach has lovely views back to the old town. It is a more organised beach with a wealth of facilities: sunbeds, pedaloes, volleyball, mini-golf and a children’s playground. There are a couple of restaurants nearby too.
Oliva Beach, near Porec
Just a 5 minute boat ride across the water from Porec, you’ll find the tiny island of St Nikola. Once there, seek out Blue Flag and pebbly Oliva Beach, shaded by rustling oak and pine trees.
Kamenjak Beach, Pula
A rustic little cove that’s great for relaxing and jumping off rocks into the sea. There is a nice little café amongst a bamboo grove too.
Mulini Beach Club
For those after something a bit swankier, there is the glamorous Mulini Beach Club at Hotel Monte Mulini. You can rent sunbeds for around 60-80 euros per day for 2 people.
maistra.com/
Katarina Island
Hop over by boat in 5 min and enjoy the crystal clear waters of this tiny island. Or rent a motorboat with skipper to explore all of the other islands and little bays. It’s about 600euros for 4 hours plus fuel.
Wine & Vine
Billed the ‘New Tuscany’, Istria’s wine (and food) scene has a strong Italian influence. The region is blessed with rolling hills, a temperate climate modulated by sea breezes, and at least four soil types. Istria’s high quality wine is no secret, but its impressive and increasing international profile is recent. During the early 1990s, a new generation of pioneers reinvigorated small family estates, modernised wineries and started focusing on quality. Today, there are a multitude of wine styles –reds, whites and rosés – from native and international varieties, plus smaller quantities of sparkling and sweet wines. Young, fresh Malvazija Istarka is Croatia’s favourite white wine, representing 70% of production.
Matosevic Winery, Rovinj
Delicious Chardonnay and interesting cellar tours.
+385 52 448 558 | matosevic.com | Open Monday-Saturday
Benvenuti Winery, Kaldir
Very small, family run winery of excellent quality. A 2017 Decanter World Wine Awards winner.
+385 98 197 5651 | benvenutivina.com | Open Monday-Friday
Kozlovic Winery, Buje
An impressive modern winery in a glorious location. Call in advance to arrange a tour and tastings, then book lunch at the excellent neighbouring restaurant, Stari Podrum, for delicious truffle dishes.
+385 52 779 177 | kozlovic.hr
+385 52 779 152 | staripodrum.info
Franc Arman Winery, Vizinada
A wonderfully rustic little winery. Visit at the beginning of you trip to stock up on a case of wine for your stay – you won’t be disappointed.
+385 52 446 226 | francarman.hr
Istria Wine Tour
Alen offers fantastic guided tours of the local area, encompassing wine, olive oil and gourmet destinations. There are various options available and you’ll be welcomed liked a local wherever you go. Book ahead.
+385 99 422 0007 | thisistria.com
Island Hopping
CRES
Known for its 16th century Venetian Tower and Arsan Palace, long, straggly Cres is one of Croatia’s largest islands. The landscape is wild and rugged; the history spans millennia rather than centuries. The island’s 300km of walking trails traverse abandoned hamlets, caves and beaches. In the north, Beli village has a griffon vulture sanctuary and a sleepy pebble beach. Along the west coast, the peaceful village of Lubenice dates back 4,000 years and hides a blue grotto beneath it. For an alternative viewpoint, explore the coastline by boat or kayak – great for discovering remote shingle beaches.
BRIJUNI
Once a playground for the rich and famous, on General Tito’s surreal island you can see a villa in which Sophia Loren stayed, a safari park and an 18 hole golf course, kept manicured by grazing deer. For lunch, head to Fazana, where sardines are the order of the day.
VENICE, Rialto Islands Archipelago
If you’re feeling adventurous, it is quite possible to reach the islands that make up Venice (as well as nearby Murano, Burano and Lido di Venezia). From Pula, on the south west coast, it’s a 2 hour ferry ride across the Adriatic to Italy’s famous ‘Floating City’. Little wonder so many of Istria’s coastal towns resemble this world famous UNESCO World Heritage Site. Go in the morning directly to San Marco square in Venice and come back in the evening for dinner!
Please call first to check restaurants and museums are open, and check the relevant government guidance before travelling.
No responsibilty can be accepted by Scott Williams for any issues that may arise as a result of the enclosed recommendations and information.