Unmissable Central Umbria
Our guide to the local secret gems...
Towns & Villages
MONTEPULCIANO
Surrounded by vineyards, just across the border in Tuscany, this medieval hilltop town is best known for a sight just outside the town, the splendid Madonna di San Biagio church. That said, do take the time to have a good wander around town. There’s the beautiful Piazza Grande with the Palazzo Comunale, Palazzo Nobili-Tarugi, cathedral and tower (with a great view from the top). If you’ve got some spare time, visit the Sant Agostino church and small museum, too.
LAKE TRASIMENO
At 128 square kilometres, this is Italy’s fourth largest lake and holds three islands within its waters: Maggiore, Minore and Polvese. A 50km cycle path traces the circumference of the lake, affording spectacular views along the way. There’s also a long trail network for exploring the surrounding hills, including several historical town centres, villages and castles. Castiglione del Lago town makes a great base. Its streets are peppered with restaurants, bars and gelaterias. There’s a good vibe in the evenings, too. lagotrasimeno.co.uk
CORTONA
A beautiful hilltop Etruscan town, made famous by Frances Mayes’ Under the Tuscan Sun. Wander the crumbling palazzi, search out the Etruscan Academy Museum of Cortona (MAEC) and enjoy the excellent shopping opportunities for leather goods, handmade books, stationery and lovely children’s clothes.
CITTÀ DELLA PIEVE
As soon as you walk into this wonderful medieval town, you are immediately struck by the beautiful brickwork and the elegance of the main street as it winds upwards towards the piazza. This area is famous for its clay soils, and for having no natural areas of stone. As a result, centuries ago this was a centre for brick making. The real joy of Città della Pieve is in taking a leisurely wander around the tiny side streets and trying to find reputedly Italy’s narrowest street, the famous Via Della Baciadonna. Narrow enough to be able to kiss the person in the opposite window by just leaning out of yours, it makes for a charming photo opportunity.
PERUGIA
Where ancient and modern Umbria marry. A former Etruscan stronghold with a turbulent history, Perugia had a dose of the black plague in 1348, suffered the Castro War from 1642 to 1644, and experienced an 18th century French invasion.
However, unlike Assisi, Perugia is a city first and foremost, not a tourist attraction. English isn’t widely spoken, prosecco is sipped at alfresco cafés and Fiat 500 drivers – old and new – make spaces out of nothing on the ancient cobbled streets. The city's main piazza, home to the dusty rose Palazzo dei Priori is a good place to start. While you’re there, throw a coin in the 12th century Fontana Maggiore (The Great Fountain).
SIENA
A UNESCO World Heritage site, Siena is one of Italy’s most visited cities, famous for its cuisine, art, museums and medieval cityscape. Piazza del Campo, the shell-shaped town square, plays host to the famous biannual Palio horse race, so observers can watch the competition while also admiring the square’s various architectural treasures.
AREZZO
To the north west of Perugia, Arezzo is a city rich in art and architecture, yet mostly free of crowds. The medieval centre was destroyed during WWII but there are still lots of fabulous monuments and buildings. Go to the Piazza Grande – built on a slant and surrounded by an attractive jumble of palazzos, towers and churches in which medieval and renaissance styles vie for supremacy. This is the focal point of Arezzo’s famous antique fair and the Giostra del Saracino.
ASSISI
Just east of Perugia, the beautiful hill town of Assisi, on the slopes of Monte Subasio, is one of the Christian world’s most important pilgrimage sites. As the birthplace of Saint Francis, Italy's patron saint (not to mention man of miracles and universal symbol of peace), this ancient town now attracts an estimated 5 million visitors per year.
TORGIANO
A beautiful medieval walled town on a hilltop perch, just south of Perugia. The area is renowned for its thick, green extra-virgin olive oil and spicy, peppery red wines. The wine and olive oil museums are well worth a visit.
PANICALE
The perfect place for a morning coffe, it has excellent restaurants and stunning views.
PACIANO
A small but well preserved old town.
Dining & Drinks
Echoes Café Piazza Matteotti 2/3
A new bar in the centre of Piegaro. Perfect for morning coffee or afternoon apertitivo.
Piegaro | +39 351 906 3111
La Baita di Montarale
Wonderfully fresh and cool during the evenings. Simple pasta and pizza served on long tables. Good for children as there is a little play area too.
Piegaro | +39 3497245755
Ristorante Essenza at i Borghi dell’Eremo
Classy dining with a menu following the seasons with produce from the restaurants’ own gardens and olive groves. Beautiful terraced garden with stunning views, particularly at sunset. Great for a special occasion.
Piegaro | borghidelleremo.it/en/essenza-restaurant/
Da Elio (Hotel & Restaurant)
Wonderfully old-fashioned, best at lunchtime.
Piegaro | +39 0758358005 | daelio.it
Pomario
Winery and olive oil mill, offering tastings and a delicious menu for lunch or dinner.
Piegaro | +39 075 8358579 | info@pomario.it | pomario.it
La Locanda del Busta
Perfect for pizza, handmade pasta or steak.
Tavernelle di Panicale | +39 335 125 35 27
Osteria Saltinbocca
Simple pizzeria and traditional Italian dishes.
Tavernelle | +39 075-832463
Dolci & Tradizioni
Delicious pastries washed down with a good cup of Illy coffee- perfect.
Tavernelle | +390753741639 | facebook.com/DolciTradizioni
La Pasticceria
Another fantastic place for great coffe and pastries.
Tavernelle | +39 075 832291
Lillo Tatini
Cosy restaurant over looking the main suqare.
Panicale | +39 075 837771 | lillotatini.it
Rastrello
A winebar and small light bites style restaurant. There are only a few tables so we recommend booking in advance. A great place for brunch, there is a lovely courtyard overlooking Lake Trasimeno.
Panicale | rastrello.com/
Osmosi Ristorante - Michelin star *
Recently aquired a Michelin star. Part of the Villa Svetoni Winery, in summer you can dine surrounded by vineyards the owner Simone has a fantastic wine cellar which is well worth a look.
Montepulciano | osmosimontepulciano.it/en/
La Bottega del Nobile
This wine shop, restaurant and wine bar sits in the historical wine cellars of the Avignonesi Palace, in the heart of the city. The restaurant serves cheese plates, pasta and meats while the shop has a curated selection of over 300 wines.
Montepulciano | +39 0578 757016 | labottegadelnobile.com | closed Mondays
Piccola Trattoria Guastini
Delicious homemade bread, pasta and sauces. Located 10 minutes outside Montepulciano, this trattoria has a spacious terrace with beautiful views of the rolling countryside.
Montepulciano | +39 0577 689215 | piccolatrattoriaguastini.it | closed Thursdays
ALBAIA Beach Bar Lounge
Come here for wonderful sunsets.
Monte del Lago | +39 3403943323
Ristorante L'Acquario
The oldest restaurant in Castiglione del Lago.
Castiglione del lago | +39 075 965 2432 | ristorantelacquario.it
Ristorante La Cantina
Deliciously simple, good value Italian food served at pretty tables shaded by a canopy – amazing lake views. It’s family friendly, with plenty of pizza and pasta. Try the traditional chestnut cake pudding.
Castiglione del Lago | +39 075 965 2463 | ristorantecantina.it
Pasticceria Michele & Co.
Excellent pastries.
Castiglione del Lago. | +39 075 953146 | micheleandco.it
Porta Senese
Trendy, young restaurant specialising in beef, including tartare and raw beef sashimi. Their motto is, ‘We have no WiFi – talk amongst yourselves.’
Castiglione del Lago | +39 075 953 331 | portasenese.it
Scuola Elementare della Pasta
A small cosy locanda restaurant serving traditional homemade pasta – watch it being made in the open kitchen.
Castiglione del Lago | +39 348 654 2757
Isola Verde
Restaurant celebrating the best ingredients that Umbria and Tuscany have to offer, from the sea and the earth.
Castiglione del Lago | isolaverderesort.it/
L’Angolo del Buongustaio
One for the wine lovers, an Umbrian style tapas bar where you can taste the delicious local wines. Perfect place pre dinner.
Castiglione del Lago | angolodelbuongustaio.com
Ristorante Osteria Nova
Fine dining in a fabulous historic building with the best views of Castiglione del Lago. We recommend you book in advance.
Castiglione del Lago | osterianova.com/
Bistrot del Duca, Via Sandro Pertini
Tucked away, this small bistro has a small but well-cooked menu, and caters for vegetarian and vegan customers. The view from the windows is stunning, especially at sunset.
Citta della Pieve | +39 0578 298 008 | bistrotdelduca.it
Trattoria Pizzeria Serenella
Next to the ‘ottica’ in the main street between the two squares you will find a small alley. After a couple of steps, you will find this restaurant on the right-hand side. Genuine family kitchen.
Citta della Pieve | +39 0578 299683
La Bettola del Buttero
Amazing food, especially the meat, and a wonderful atmosphere.
Citta della Pieve | +39 0763 832446 | labettoladelbuttero.com/en | Closed Sunday evenings
Trattoria Bruno Coppetta
Authentic food and great atmosphere, with a large pizza oven and an open fire grill. Best to book before you go.
Citta della Pieve | +39 0758 299403 | trattoriabrunocoppetta.eu
Zafferano Pievese Restaurant
Fine dining with something for everyone – good for all the family.
Citta della Pieve | +39 0578 298 063 | hotel-vannucci.com/ristorante
Molino 49
Blending modern design with the traditional stories of the region. Swanky food served in an old olive oil mill of which the old working parts are on display within the restaurant.
Citta della Pieve | molino49.com
Ristorante da Nilo
Very romantic restaurant at the end of the old square in Cetona. Good quality food and a pleasant outside terrace.
Cetona | +39 0578 239040 | iltigliodipiazza.it
EVO bistrot Centumbrie
On the road from Perugia to Città della Pieve. Fusion style kitchen with a good bar offering freshly baked bread and cakes made from their own grain that they produce around Lake Trasimeno. Don’t miss trying their olive oil - it’s prize winning.
Perugia | centumbrie.com/evobistrot/
Libre Lepre
Unique restaurant under the same ownership as EVO bistrot, overlooking Lake Trasimeno.
Agello | centumbrie.com/it/ristorazione/agriturismo-libera-lepre
Osteria del Posto
Stylish osteria with a menu in harmony with the seasons. Great place for a smart but relaxed dinner.
Corciano | osteriadelposto.it/
Il Pozzetto di Buono Luca
Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. Local atmosphere, not a fancy place but high-quality food, large parking area, and an outdoor terrace. They serve the best fresh fish in the area. Ask for the ‘fish tasting menu’ (degustazione del pesce!), normally on Friday and the weekend. They also serve Pizza.
Moiano | +39 0578294014 | ristoranteilpozzetto.it
Valter a Solomeo
Traditional Umbrian restaurant in the countryside outside Perugia. Cosy interior during the winter months, outside there is a large pergola and garden for dinner al fresco in summer. We recommend booking, particularly at the weekends.
Solomeo | thefork.it
Heinz Beck Seasons at Ristorante Castello di Fighine
Discover the winding pathways of this fairytale hamlet perched at the top of a hill. Drivingn up the steep track through the forest, expect wild boar at night and we wouldn’t be surprised if Sleeping Beauty made an appearance too. The site of the hamlet is Etruscan and we can think of no better location for a Michelin star restaurant specialising in home-made Tuscan pasta. The wine list features several the great Super Tuscan wines as well as other locally produced wines of excellent quality.
Fighine | fighine.it | +39 0578 56158
Ristorante Daniela in San Casciano dei Bagni
Atomspheric restaurant with vaulted ceilings in the picturesque and historically fascinating village of San Casciano dei Bagni. Book in advance.
San Casciano dei Bagni | +39 057858234 | settequerce.it
La Forchetta Bistrot
An excellent seasonal menu with Sicilian influence.
Perugia | +39 075 395009 | laforchettabistrot.it
Ristorante Altromondo
Very popular with the locals which is always a good sign!
Perugia | +39 075 5723221
Bottega del Vino, Via del Sole
Cosy wine bar and restaurant with great views to the main square. You’ll need to book.
Perugia | +39 0755 716 181 | labottegadelvino.net
L’Acciuga Ristorante - Michelin star *
A newly opened restaurant in Perguia serving tradiotional Umbrian food to Michelin star level.
Perugia | lacciuga.net
Civico 25, Via della Viola
Great food and fun atmosphere.
Perugia | +39 0755 716376 | civico25.com | Closed Sundays
L’Officina, Borgo XX Giugno
Greek owned yet wonderfully Italian, this cosy restaurant serves creative cuisine amid walls filled with wine bottles - try to get a table in view of the kitchen.
Perugia | +39 0755 721699 | Closed Sundays
Stella Restaurant & Winery
Excellent small restaurant with local specialties and a lovely outdoor terrace overlooking Perugia.
Perugia | +39 0756 920002 | stellaperugia.it |Closed Tuesdays
Luce
Romantic and atmospheric restaurant in the medieval vaults in the centre of Perugia.
Perugia | luceristorante.it
Agriturismo Il Tiro
Pleasant indoor space and a wide open terrace. Excellent local dishes and wine.
Open only for dinner.
Bagnaia | agriturismoiltiro.it
Osteria del Teatro
This upmarket restaurant is located in a beautiful building off the main street and features some of the best pasta around.
Cortona | + 39 0575 630556
La Taverna di San Giuseppe
Dine inside a centuries old, hand sculpted tuff cave, one of the best restaurants in Tuscany, fabulous wine cellar – over 600 labels.
Siena | +39 0577 42286 | tavernasangiuseppe.it | closed Sundays
Osteria Le Logge
Fine Italian dining - a personal favourite among star-spangled actors. The building was once a pharmacy. They also offer a private chef at your villa and cooking classes in Gianni Brunelli’s farm in Montalcino, booking is essential.
Siena | +39 0577 48013 | osterialelogge.it | closed Sundays
Ristorante le Chiavi d’Oro
Refined Tuscan cooking in a stylish retro Scandi setting.
Arezzo | 39 0575 403 313 | ristorantelechiavidoro.it | closed Mondays
La Torre di Gnicche
A friendly wine bar and osteria just off Piazza Grande.
Arezzo | +39 0575 352 035 | latorredignicche.it | closed Wednesdays
Osteria Piazzetta
Lovely Italian restaurant with a vaulted dining room and creative cuisine - very popular with locals so you’ll need to reserve a table.
Assisi | +39 075 815 352 | osterialapiazzetta.it | closed Mondays
La Selva d’Assisi
Restaurant and cafè overlooking the Basilica di San Francesco.
Assisi | +39075816129 | facebook.com/caffelaselvaassisi/
Borgo Antichi OrtI
Formerly a vegetable garden belonging to monks, at the base of the basilica. It is now a wonderful restaurant in a fairytale setting.
Asissi | borgoantichiortiassisi.it | +39 392 9049625
La Bottega di Assù
Small unconventional restaurant, with a very special owner: Assù. Don't miss her famous Panzanella- it’s simply delicious! Make sure you reserve a table by sending a whatsapp to Assù: 0039 339262536
Bevagna
Sights & Activities
Aqua Dolce Sailing School, Monte del Lago
Hire sail boats, motorboats, kayaks, and bikes too. Novices can join the sailing school and those who prefer observing can watch from the lounge bar.
+39 345 046 7983 | acquadolcesailing.it
Kitemaniak, Castiglone del Lago
Great for kitesurfing and stand up paddle boarding. They welcome ages 12+ and can teach children to pilot a small kite using fun games on the beach.
+39 348 764 5960 Filippo Covarelli | kitemaniak.it
Quad Biking, Tuoro sul Trasimeno & Magione
Go quad biking on a beach or trail excursion.
umbriainquad.com
Swimming at Lakeside Beaches & Parks
The best beaches for swimming are just below Castiglione, near Tuoro and near the fishing village of Torricella on the opposite shore - Castiglione del Lago Beach is a lovely stretch of sand with parasols, sunbeds and safe swimming. For lakeside parks, try the Giardino Pubblico in Castiglione del Lago, or the towns of Passignano sul Trasimeno and Tuoro sul Trasimeno.
Bikes & Vespa Hire, San Savino
Bikes can be picked up and dropped off around the lake – the entire route takes around 4 hours. If that all sounds too strenuous, do as the Italians do and travel by Vespa. You can hire them lakeside at San Savino (Via Case Sparse).
+39 347 463 6423 | umbriainvespa.com
Maggiore Island, Lake Trasimeno
Take one of the regular boats to tiny Isola Maggiore, where there are restaurants and a natural park - great fun and you can have lunch with a stunning view. Crossings are available from Tuoro sul Trasimeno, Passignano sul Trasimeno, Castiglione del Lago.
Polvese Island, Lake Trasimeno
The largest island on Lake Trasimeno, Isola Maggiore, is perfect for exploring on foot. Home to a nature park, a castle and a monastery, you can spend the day exploring before stopping for a picnic or lunch at one of the two eateries on the island. Crossings are available from San Feliciano.
Etruscan Academy Museum of Cortona (MAEC)
Opened in 2005, this museum houses an extensive and remarkable collection of artefacts detailing the history and achievements of the Etruscans, who resided in this area from 8th to the 3rd century BC, before being unceremoniously wiped out by the Roman Empire.
‘The Perugino Trail’, Citta della Pieve
The most famous hometown boy was Pietro Vannucci, better known by his artistic name of Il Perugino, who left a vivid mark on his birthplace in the form of frescoes. The most famous is The Adoration of the Magi, a striking nativity scene that he painted in the Oratory of Santa Maria dei Banchi, completed in just 28 days. The Cathedral, the church of Santa Maria dei Servi, and the church of San Pietro also house some of his masterpieces, and many people come here just to see his work.
Chocolate Factory Tour, Perugia
Children can explore the Baci Perugina chocolate factory. Tours are offered in English (and include tastings!). Reservations are required.
Perugia | +39 075 5276796| www.perugina.it |Closed Sundays
Siena Duomo, Siena
Dating back to the 12th century, the Duomo is one of Italy’s greatest examples of Romanesque Gothic architecture. From August 18th until late October, they take off the carpet that normally covers the marble inlay floor, revealing an incredible narrative that took hundreds of years to create.
Santa Maria della Scala, Arezzo
Once one of the largest and most famous former hospitals in medieval Italy, it now houses three museums. Its highlight is the upstairs Pellegrinaio (Pilgrim’s Hall), with vivid 15th century frescoes lauding the good works of the hospital and its patrons, painted by Lrenzo Vecchietta, Primao della Quercia and Domenico di Bartolo. The Santa Maria della Scala is also home to the Museo d’Arte per Bambini, aimed at children aged 3-11.
Basilica di San Francesco Bacci Chapel
Check out frescoes of the Renaissance artist Piero della Francesca – notably the Legend of the True Cross. Admissions are limited to 30 minute scheduled visits; reservations only.
Arezzo | +39 0575 352 727 | pierodellafrancesca-ticketoffice.it/en
Saint Francis of Assisi Basilica, Piazza di S. Francesco
The mother church of the Roman Catholic Order of Friars Minor Conventual in Assisi, containing frescoes by Giotto and others that mark a turning point in the history of Western art.
+39 075 819 001 | sanfrancescoassisi.org/en/
Abbey of Sant'Antimo, (West) Central Umbria
Built in the 9th century, the Abbey of Sant'Antimo is the oldest in the region. Not only is it beautiful, but the monks perform mass in Gregorian chants regularly. It’s approximately an hour’s drive west of Montepulciano.
+39 0577 286 300 | antimo.it
Lake Montepulciano, (West) Central Umbria
One of the most important wetlands of central Italy, this is all that is left of the great swamp that once characterised the Valdichiana (Chiana Valley). Today, it is a protected natural area with a visitors’ centre – book a guided tour or explore by bike.
Walking
The Umbria countryside is a wonderful place to walk, although if you come in the hot summer months you’ll have to start early.
Circolo Tennis Chiusi, Via Poggio Gallina, (West) Central Umbria
Just north of Città della Pieve in Chiusi, Circolo Tennis have 2 outdoor clay courts and it is possible to book.
+39 0578 223069
Avignonesi Winery, Montepulciano, (West) Central Umbria
There are several vineyards in this area, but we would recommend Avignonesi where you can do a wine cellar tour followed by lunch with wine pairings. Located between Montepulciano and Cortona, the beautiful estate includes vineyards, an elegant villa, a chapel and ancient stone wine cellars.
+39 0578 724 304 | avignonesi.it
Cugusi Dairy Cheese Tasting, (West) Central Umbria
If you want to know all about Pecorino cheese, pay a visit to this family run dairy. See how their award-winning cheese is made and taste different varieties.
+39 0578 757 558 | caseificiocugusi.it
Water Park Tavernelle, (West) Central Umbria
Just south of Lake Trasimeno, this small water park is great fun for families, with two large swimming pools, a children’s pool and slides. There’s a restaurant and coffee bar (you can’t have a bad cup of coffee in Italy), or you could bring a picnic. More popular with locals than international visitors, it remains relatively quiet in summer, as most Italians go to the coast for their holidays. That said, come in the mornings if you want to avoid the crowds. You’ll need swimming hats, which you can buy at reception.
+39 075 832 056 | azzurrapiscine.it/aquapark-tavernelle
Saltalbero Adventure Park, (West) Central Umbria
Just east of Siena, this nature park is great for outdoorsy families and young children. There are 7 different treetop courses (for ages 3+), as well as mini golf, football and volleyball courts, forest trekking paths and an animal corner with donkeys, alpacas and horses.
saltalbero.it | seasonal opening hours
Perugia Golf Club, Central Umbria
Located just 6km from the Old Town centre, this 18-hole members’ course spans gently undulating parkland (par 72). Play possible at all times; club and buggy hire available.
+39 075 517 22 04 | golfclubperugia.it
Lamborghini Golf Club, Central Umbria
Created by the inventor of the famous motor car, this 9 hole golf course sits between Panicale and Lake Trasiemeno, covering 30 hectares of Umbrian countryside (par 36). Play possible at all times.
+39 075 8375 820 | golf.tenutalamborghini.it | closed Sundays & Tuesdays
Fonteverde Spa, (West) Central Umbria
There are thermal baths and spa facilities at Fonteverde, in San Casciano dei Bagni.
+39 057 572 405 | fonteverdespa.com
San Giovanni Terme Rapolano Park, (West) Central Umbria
This area of Italy is rich in hot natural springs that bubble out of the ground. Filled with minerals and the heat of the earth, the spring waters have been used for their curative properties since the times of the Romans. At this thermal park (between Siena and Arezzo), the water flows naturally from the source to the pools, at a temperature of 39 degrees. You can also book mud baths, Turkish baths and massages.
Circuito di Siena Go Karting, (West) Central Umbria
Twenty minutes outside Siena city, this fabulous outdoor go karting track is great for adrenaline junkies.
+39 0577 352 075 | circuitodisiena.it
Shopping
Piegaro has 2 small grocery stores. Larger supermarkets can be found at Citta della Pieve and Tavernelle. In Moiano there is a small butchery and a grocery store. A larger supermarket can be found 5 minutes outside of Moiano on the way to Chiusi.
Pick up some speciality beer at 25Mq Beer Shop, in Castiglione del Lago.
If you fancy a spot of clothes shopping, head to Brunello Cucinelli in Solomeo- the outlet store within the famous designer’s home town and head to Valter a Solomeo for lunch afterwards.
Please call first to check restaurants and museums are open, and check the relevant government guidance before travelling.
No responsibilty can be accepted by Scott Williams for any issues that may arise as a result of the enclosed recommendations and information.