Unmissable Central Puglia
Our guide to the local secret gems...
Towns & Villages
OSTUNI
As you drive up winding roads, this northern “White City” is a stunning sight. It’s a medieval hill town, rebuilt by the Greeks after it was destroyed by Hannibal. Wander the narrow back streets and flights of steps getting delightfully lost. Later, head to the highest part of town to see the imposing Archbishop’s palace and Concattedrale with its symmetrical façade and rose window.
CEGLIE MESSAPICA
An inland town with heaps of authentic Italian charm. It’s a burgeoning hub for great food and has a growing collection of little shops. A lovely spot to cycle or walk to for a morning coffee in the piazza.
MONOPOLI
Around 30km south of Bari, this fortified port town was originally a fishing village, but being on the northern Adriatic coast, it soon came under Venetian control in the 16th century. Today the harbour is large and elaborate with a skirmish of fishing boats, scooters, fishermen untangling their nets, local children running around and elegant yachts. The town is buzzy both day and night with many churches to visit and plenty of restaurants and bars to sample.
POLIGNANO A MARE
Just north of Ostuni, this clifftop town is perched 20 metres above the Adriatic. It lives up to its name and literally could not be any more ‘at sea’. Although renowned for its natural limestone caves and fantastic seafood, it is particularly famous for cliff diving (it has hosted the Red Bull diving competition), outstanding ice cream and Domenico Modugno, who wrote and sang numerous classic songs, including the Volare (later sung by The Gipsy Kings).
BARI BARIVECCHIA (OLD TOWN)
One of the oldest towns in Italy and the capital of Puglia, Bari is one of a kind. The centre feels like a maze of winding streets with religious buildings around every corner. With layer upon layer of historic stories, its style is a mix of Medieval, Byzantine, Romanesque and Baroque. Today, little old ladies still sit outside their houses making fresh pasta, not because it’s appealing to tourists, but because that’s what they have always done. In fact, “pasta alley” is where Jamie Oliver came to learn the art.
LECCE
Nicknamed “The Florence of the South,” this radiant city is well worth the short road trip—just under an hour by car. It’s a treasure trove for history boffs, brimming with tales of ancient conquerors, plagues, and medieval trade routes. The city proudly showcases two Roman amphitheatres and a breathtaking duomo, which is especially magical when illuminated at night. There’s no shortage of delicious dining spots either, making it a fantastic all-rounder for a memorable family day out.
ALBEROBELLO
A popular tourist destination but definitely worth seeing if you are nearby. With rolling hills of endless trulli and plenty of shops to explore, this is a very fun visit!
LOCOROTONDO
Just south of Alberobello (handy for combining in one day trip), this circular, whitewashed town is one of Puglia’s prettiest, with views over the trulli peppered Valle d’Itria. It’s a fabulous place to spend some time wandering the streets before lunch. Try Locorotondo’s speciality, u tridde: freshly made pasta with pecorino cheese and finely-chopped parsley, that’s cut into small pieces and cooked in a turkey stock. You might like to wash it down with a glass or two of Locorotondo wine.
SAVELLETRI
This pretty seaside resort is surrounded by drystone walls, olive groves and a golf course – a popular stop off for cyclists touring the coastline and those seeking fresh seafood.
MATERA
One of the oldest, still inhabited cities in the world. Famous for its ancient cave dwellings, known as the Sassi, which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a 1 hour 40 min drive but it's oh so worth it- a very special town indeed.
MARTINA FRANCA
An elegnat town in the heart of the Valley D’Itria with stunning baroque architecture and some lovely shops.
GROTTALGIE
Home to its very own Quartiere delle Ceramiche (Ceramics District), this charming town is a vibrant hub for the iconic multicoloured, speckled designs that have become synonymous with Puglia. The streets are adorned with striking murals that reflect the town’s blossoming art scene, and you’ll find plenty of fresh, hearty local fare to enjoy. Be sure to seek out the Cripte Rupestri—ancient churches and chapels carved directly into the bedrock, where faded frescoes and a mythical atmosphere offer a glimpse into the town’s rich past.
Dining
Coimbra Brothers *
An unassuming petrol station from the outside, this spot bowled us over when we walked in to find a multi-coloured spread of Pugliese home cooking, perfect for a rustic in-house lunch or to take home. Impeccably clean and with plenty of variety, this place is such a winner for families as an easy lunch option. Head to Coimbra Brothers - in Piazza for an on-the-go slice of pizza while walking around town.
Ceglie Messapica | +39 3483428856 | Coimbra Brothers Tavola Calda, Bar, Tabacchi a Francavilla
Taverna Dei Domenicani
A wonderful spot for rustic elegance, with bottles of delicious wine nestled into the crevice of the centuries-old stone walls. Very good, especially for fish.
Ceglie Messapica | +39 0831388174
Ristorante Da Gino *
It’s impossible to resist indulging in at least a three-course meal here—pasta, secondi piatti, wine... the works! With a roaring open fire at the heart of the space, you’ll eat delicious dishes made from locally foraged ingredients from traditional Pugliese crockery.
Ceglie Messapica | +39 0831377916 | Ristorante Da Gino - Family run since 1974
Osteria Pugliese
A classic spot in the centre of town for great atmosphere and seriously traditional food. Fresh pasta galore - you can't go wrong!
Ceglie Messapica | +39 0831377115
L'Antico Arco Osteria
There's nothing like the bustling atmosphere of this place on a summer's evening in the very heart of the old town. Watch as the orecchiette are shaped in front of your eyes! Food is fresh, simple and cooked to perfection.
Ceglie Messapica | +39 3397591381
CIBUS
Family-run and voted one of the top 15 trattorie in Gambero Rosso food guide. Try the cheese board!
Ceglie Messapica | +39 0831388980 | Home - Ristorante Cibus
Osteria da Guiseppe
A proper local’s joint where you’ll feel like you’re dining at the house of a dear friend.
Ceglie Messapica | +39 3341462344 | Osteria da Giuseppe - Trattoria cucina tipica Ceglie Messapica Brindisi Puglia
Vino Fritti e Cucina
Perfect for a balmy summer’s evening, this is a spot to order a bottle of wine and a delicious antipasto sharing plate!
Ceglie Messapica | +39 3345765463
Arrosteria Borgo Antico
The best meat restaurant in town. Everything is worth 5 star here - from the quality of the ingredients to the service.
Ceglie Messapica | +39 3758766323
Al Solito Posto - Ristorante Pizzeria *
An elegant spot for pizza, pasta and seafood under vaulted ceilings and with beautiful lighting.
Ostuni | +39 0831305850 | Al Solito Posto – Ristorante Pizzeria Ostuni
AQUASANTA dispensa e vino *
This cavernous wine bar is the epitome of Italian romance. Settle in for delicious wine and daily antipasti specials. The sandwiches are also to die for!
Ostuni | +39 3205529054 | ACQUASANTA - dispensa e vino (@acquasanta_dispensaevino) • Instagram photos and videos
Casa San Giacomo
A rustic gem at the heart of Ostuni. They do pasta making workshops which are great fun for kids!
Ostuni | +39 3282086391 | Casa San Giacomo | Instagram, Facebook | Linktree
Ristorante di Villa Torre Bianca
A really special spot for a meal to mark an occasion. Set in a towering, chapel-like, stone building with beautiful lighting and a gorgeous atmosphere.
Triggianello, near Polignano a Mare | +39 0804086035 | Restaurant | Villa Torre Bianca Puglia
Osteria del Tempo Perso *
If it’s good enough for Antonio Carluccio... Evenings only. Classic Pugliese fare in a warmly lit cave at the very centre of town - one of Ostuni’s aboslute bests.
Ostuni | +39 0831 304819 | osteriadeltempoperso.com | Closed Mondays
La Sommità
Sweeping views out to sea, a cavernous wine bar and a Michelin starred restaurant. Be sure to book.
Ostuni | +39 0831305925 | lasommita.it
Masseria Il Frantoio
A beautiful masseria outside Ostuni with an al fresco courtyard surrounded by olive trees.
Ostuni | +39 083 133 0276 | masseriailfrantoio.it
Osteria Gia Sotto L’arco
An elegant and central restaurant where dinner is a ceremonial event worth starving the entire day for.
Ostuni | +39 0831 996286 | giasottolarco.it | Closed Sunday evenings
Casa San Giacomo
A cozy atmosphere and a multigenerational staff - this place is a local favourite.
Il Punto
Simply the best fish. Excellent wine list. Booking essential.
Torre Canne | +39 0804820060
Ricciolandia *
Rustic to the nines, this seasfood spot is in the best location right on the beach. If it was on Anthony Burdain’s list, it should be on yours! Think cheap and cheerful, plastic chairs and the best food.
Torre Canne | +39 3383573010 | Ricciolandia | Turismo
Alfredo Ristorante
Duck in here for lunch or supper after a day full of ceramics shopping.
Grottalgie | +39 3292232186 | Alfredo - Menu
Best Beaches & Clubs
Lido Le Palme
A well run, swanky beach club with full restaurant service on the beach.
lepalmebeachclub.it
Lido Bambu
Comfy sunloungers, a good restaurant and beach service.
Monopoli | lidobambu.it
Lido Stella, near Ostuni
A relaxed beach with a restaurant set back from the sand and a panini bar for light snacks. You can rent sunbeds directly on the beach.
+39 3898572460 | Lido Stella Beach | Pilone (Ostuni - Br)
Gestiva Beach, near Ostuni
Just around the corner to the right of Lido Stella is this utter hidden gem. A quiet beach with a fantastic bar and a few great dishes on the menu for lunch - you’ll feel like a real local here.
+39 3939838001
Togo Bay Beach
A bit further but a must visit. Powdery sand, turquoise water and excellent beach service.
+39 3276105084 | Togo Bay | The beach the Salento in Porto Cesareo
Torre Guaceto
A pristine stretch of coastline in Puglia, Italy, known for its fine white sand, clear turquoise waters, and tranquil atmosphere. It's a popular spot for sunbathing, swimming, and enjoying the natural beauty of the area. The beach is part of a larger nature reserve, which also includes coastal dunes, wetlands, and Mediterranean scrub, making it a paradise for birdwatching and nature enthusiasts.
Lido Bosco Verde, near Ostuni
A great beach with several bars and an excellent fish restaurant.
Marina di Ostuni
Home to lots of sandy beaches with crystal clear water.
Nomade Ostuni, near Ostuni
Think huge Morroccan cushions on the sand, tiki bars, an Asian-inspired menu and spaces for yoga and meditation.
HOME - Nomade Ostuni | +39 347 457 0894
Cala Maka Beach Club, between Ostuni and Monopoli
Relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, serving pasta and sushi. Great spot for an evening drink with friends.
https://calamaka.it/ | +39 0831 181 5499
Coccaro Beach Club, near Monopoli
5 star private beach with fine sand, located in the fishing village of Savelletri. Among its facilities: fish and sushi restaurant, all-day cocktail bar, kids club, SPA massages, yoga and boutique shop.
https://www.coccarobeachclub.it/en/home | +39 080 4123467
Tamerici Beach Club, near Monopoli
Great bar, easy snacks and comfortable white sofas on terraces ready right by the sea.
https://lidotamerici.com/ | +39 366 4688179
Sabbiadoro Luxury Beach Club, near Monopoli
Another great option.
https://www.sabbiadorobeach.com/en/homepage/ | +39 080 80 1003
Santo Stefano Beach, near Monopoli
A popular coastal area with various sandy beaches, small coves and cliffs. There’s also a medieval castle and abbey nearby if you get restless. For lunch, pop into Porto Ghiacciolo for great value spaghetti, clams or sautéed mussles, washed down with a cold beer.
Porto Ghiacciolo +39 346 223 7762
La Dolce Riva Beach Club, near Otranto
Many of the Puglian beaches have their own beach clubs. Some have waitered sunbeds, restaurants and cafés as well as water sports. There are literally 100s of good ones, but try to visit the fabulous La Dolce Riva, near Otranto. It’s advisable to book ahead during July and August.
+39 320 011 2729 | dolceriva.it
Laghi Alimini, just north of Otranto
Two lakes in the pine woods - Alimini Piccolo and Alimini Grande. The larger lake has a small inlet to the coast where the sandy beaches are lovely.
San Cataldo, near Lecce
Just 12km from Lecce, this resort has a great choice of beaches (many with sunbeds and cafés).
Torre dell’Orso, near Lecce
This stretch of coastline has dramatic white cliffs behind and sand below the feet.
Capo d’Otranto
The easternmost point of Italy, where there are many inlets with good beaches.
Marina di Pescoluse, south coast
At the southern most tip of Puglia you’ll find 6km of fabulous beach, the shallow waters are particularly good for children and inexperienced swimmers, plus there are beach clubs and activities stretching along the coast.
Do & See
DireFareGustare - Cooking Classes
Learn to cook the most authentic Puglian dishes and pair with delicious local wines. A fantastic experience.
direfaregustare.com
Baby Dicecca
A unique cheese tasting experince in the forest.
Vito Dicecca - Vito Dicecca
Il Frantolio di D’Amico Pietro, near Ostuni
This olive oil mill offers surprisingly engaging tours; it’s a co-op where families and farms can bring their harvests for pressing and producing extra virgin olive oil.
+39 080 444 4671 | ilfrantolio.it | Closed Sundays
Giardini di Pomona, Cisternino
Wander these amazing gardens, home to 283 different varieties of fig.
+39 080 431 78 06 | igiardinidipomona.it | Closed Thursdays
Snorkeling & Diving
The small coral reefs and sea grass are great for snorkeling and diving fans. Check out the Padi website to find a dive centre suitable for your experience. You can take scuba diving taster courses or full padi courses with Scuba Diving Di Levanto Stefano, in Otranto.
padi.com | Otranto: +39 0836 80 27 40 or scubadiving.it
Cycling & Mountain biking
Puglia is great for cyclists, with both easy and challenging tracks and very little traffic. Apulia Bike Tours have some great bikes to rent and offer guided bike rides.
apuliabiketours.com
Torre Coccaro Golf Club
The 9 hole course winds its way around olive groves and offers some great sea views (Par 27, 1,109m).
+39 080 482 9310 | masseriatorrecoccaro.com
San Domenico Golf Club, near Monopoli
Home to the PGA European Challenge Tour Grand Final, the 18 hole course features great sea views, lots of bunkers and some testing Adriatic Sea breezes (Par 72, 6,300m).
+39 0804829200 | golfpuglia.it
Acaya Golf Club, Strada Comunale di Acaya
An 18 hole course with fabulous views. The opening holes have a heathland feel, and the back nine has plenty of water (Par 71, 6,192m).
+39 083 286 1385 | acayagolfresort.com
Vair Spa, Borgo Egnazia, near Monopoli
Borga Egnazia Hotel’s on site spa is amongst the best in southern Italy. Treatments use local herbs and the menu is seemingly endless. There’s also a sauna, Turkish bath and hair salon.
+39 080 225 5000 | borgoegnazia.com
Zoo Safari, Fasano
A drive-through safari park with a sea lion aquarium, roller coasters and water rides. Just outside Alberobello.
+39 080 441 4455 | zoosafari.it
Grotte Castellana
Just north of Alberobello, this spectacular network of caves stretching over 3km is not to be missed.
+39 080 4998221 | grottedicastellana.it | Seasonal opening hours – see website for details & booking.
Giardini Pistola
Charming gardens with mazes, water features and a trampoline for children. Designed by fellow Somerset-based business Urquhart Hunt. You can pre-order a family picnic to enjoy in the gardens.
Fasano | giardinipistola.com
Local Produce & Markets
Suma Negazi - Salumeria
The passionate owner here gives you lots of samples and makes great sandwiches.
Ceglie Messapica | +39 08311482028
Nautilus - Pescheria Bistrot
The place to buy the freshest fish. If you don’t fancy preparing it
at home, take it next door to the bistrot run by the same owner and have them cook it to perfection for you!
Ostuni | +393456052412
Orto Fruta
Fresh ingredients to take home and whip up a feast. Cheap too!
Ceglie Messapica | https://maps.app.goo.gl/s6RYLByq66QhTur77
Panificio Moretto Di Lerna Damiano
Delicious traditional bakery.
Ceglie Messapica | +39 0831388501
Wine & Vine
Puglia is best known for three red grapes: Nero di Troia, grown primary in the north around Bari; Pimitive, from two main areas in the centre; and Negroamaro in the south. As for white grapes, it’s too hot for most of them. This doesn’t put the Puglians off though, the city of Bari alone consumes more Champagne than Japan. Tenute Chiaromonte, near Bari
If you book ahead you can walk in the ancient Primitivo vineyards with producr Nicola Chiaromonte, and have an alfresco snack as you taste the wines.
Enoteca La Dolce Vite
The owner is so knoweldgable and will help you pick out the very best match.
Ceglie Messapica | +39 3395010905
Tenute Chiaromonte, near Bari
If you book ahead you can walk in the ancient Primitivo vineyards with producr Nicola Chiaromonte, and have an alfresco snack as you taste the wines.
+39 080 768 156 | tenutechiaromonte.com
Polvanera Estate
Located inland from Monopoli, this vineyard offers wine tastings and visits to the bare-walled cellar - a great way to really see the terroir. Follow the tour with one of the best home cooked meals you can have in Puglia (must be booked ahead).
+39 080 758 900 | cantinepolvanera.it | Closed Sundays
Enoteca II Tralcio, Monopoli
This shop is the place to stock up on wines from Puglia and beyond.
+39 080 930 1366 | enotecailtralcio.it | Reduced opening hours on Sundays
Masseria Li Veli
Amazing wine tours and paired lunches.
liveli.it/en
Please call first to check restaurants and museums are open, and check the relevant government guidance before travelling.
No responsibilty can be accepted by Scott Williams for any issues that may arise as a result of the enclosed recommendations and information.