Unmissable South Umbria
Our guide to the local secret gems...
Towns & Villages
TODI
Perched on a lofty hilltop, high above the winding River Tiber, Todi’s tumbling traditional architecture makes it one of Umbria’s prettiest towns. Once a simple agricultural town, today’s gentrified Todi is a trendy retreat for foreign expats and Rome’s arts and media types. At its heart, the lovely Piazza del Popolo has plenty of good cafés and restaurants, plus you can climb the tower of San Fortunato church for fabulous views. Once you arrive, bypass the city gates and use the well signposted Porta Orvietana car park instead. Rather than having to climb the seriously steep hill into the centre, you will instead be able to ride up in style via the (free) lift.
ORVIETO
Just west of Todi, the glow of this small city is beautiful from every angle. With architecture reminiscent of both Florence and Rome, its exquisite cathedral façade reflects the golden light of sunset like few others in the world. There are lots of shops and bars/restaurants, fabulous delis and wonderful bakeries. Well worth a visit.
MONTEPULCIANO
Surrounded by vineyards, this medieval hill top town is best known for a sight just outside the town, the splendid Madonna di San Biagio church. That said, do take the time to have a good wander around town. There’s the beautiful Piazza Grande with the Palazzo Comunale, Palazzo Nobili-Tarugi, Cathedral and tower (with a great view from the top). If you’ve got some spare time, visit the Sant Agostino church and small museum, too.
BEVAGNA
Umbria’s foodie capital with several restaurants crammed into its small centre. It is home to not one but two stunning Romanesque churches.
TERNI
The unlikely birthplace of St Valentine, bishop of the town until his martyrdom. He is now entombed in his personal basilica at nearby San Valentino. Despite its history, it would be hard to imagine a less romantic city than Terni. Because of its important arms and steel industries, it was a target for Allied bombing in 1944 and 80% of the town was reduced to rubble. Its other claim to fame… the gun used to assassinate President Kennedy was made here. However, the surrounding area is lovely and you can’t miss the stunning Marmore Waterfall, just outside town (see Do & See.)
Dining & Drinks
Bar Pianegiani, Corso Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour
Brave the queues, this is the best gelateria in town.
Todi | +39 075 894 2376 | barpianegiani.it
Pane & Vino, Via Augusto Ciuffelli
Rustic and tasty local fare, with a homely welcoming atmosphere. Try the truffle steak.
Todi | +39 075 894 5448 | panevinotodi.com
Ristorante Pizzeria Le Scalette, Via delle Scalette
Great pizzeria, very good gluten free options
Todi | +39 075 894 4422 | Closed Mondays
Bacio di Latte, Piazza Del Popolo
Meaning ‘Kiss of Milk’, this central gelateria is great for a sweet treat.
Todi | +39 345 797 9562
Le Roi de La Crepe
A favourite with everyone, serving Italy’s answer to the French crepe. Delicious, fast food. Fantastic place to refuel small chidlren quickly!
Todi | +39 075 937 1116
Montemenardo, near Todi
In the countryside just south of Todi, this small local olive oil farm restaurant is a lovely place to combine lunch with a rural walk.
Todi | +39 075 894 5903 | montemenardo.it
Cavour
Delicious thin pizza with a lovely garden for al-fresco dining. Very reasonable prices.
Todi | +39 075 894 2491
La Casareccia
A favourite for Sunday lunch, you can really feast here. Also does takeaway if you prefer to eat at home.
Avigliano | +39 0744 933482 | lacasarecciamenu.it
La Posta
Delicious, simple home cooked fare and homemade bread and pizzas. Check the website for opening hours.
Avigliano | +39 334 675 8228 | ristorantelaposta.net
Ristorante Il Buongustaio
Local restaurant offering delicious, traditional dishes.
San Terenziano | ristoranteilbuongustaio.eu | +39 0742 930033
Torre Sangiovanni
Set in a medieval castle, this intimate restaurant is fairytale like. Traditional Umbrian dishes are served. Grreat for special occasions.
Collevalenza | +39 075 887364 | torre-sangiovanni.it/il-ristorante.html
Osteria “La Cruccola”
An absolute favourite, simple and delicious. Also offering a ‘take away’ menu. Great if you want to explore Todi for the day and then pick up supper to eat at home.
Aqualoreto | +39 339 326 6276
Vineria di San Fortunato
Charming wine bar, don’t miss the 6pm ‘aperitivo’.
Todi | +39 392 371 4140
I Sette Consoli Piazza Sant’Angelo
This elegant Italian restaurant places a focus on seasonal produce and is more than worthy of its Michelin Star.
Orvieto | +39 0763 343911 | isetteconsoli.it
Vinosus, Piazza Duomo
The locals’ recommendation. Open on a Wednesday when many others are closed.
Orvieto | +39 0763 341907 | vinosus.it/en | Closed Mondays
A Bottega del Nobile, Via di Gracciano nel Corso
This wine shop, restaurant and wine bar sits in the historical wine cellars of the Avignonesi Palace, in the heart of the city. The restaurant serves cheese plates, pastas and meats while the shop has a curated selection of over 300 wines.
Montepulciano | +39 0578 757016 | vinonobile.eu
Piccola Trattoria Guastini, near Montepulciano
Delicious homemade bread, pasta and sauces. Located just outside the town, this trattoria benefits from a spacious terrace with beautiful views of the rolling countryside.
Montepulciano | +39 0577 689215 | piccolatrattoriaguastini.it | Closed Wednesdays
La Bottega di Assù
Warm, relaxed vibe serving classic Umbrian food, inside are just a handful of tables so make sure you reserve a table beforehand!
Bevagna | +39 0742 360978
Do & See
Fiorfiore
A winery, spa and resort putting a modern twist on traditional ingredients. Great place to celebrate a special occasion.
Todi | roccafiore.it/en/portfolio/winery/
Cantina villa sobrano
A wonderful local wine producer. Highly recommeded.
cantinasobrano.it | +39 075 887127
Chocolate Factory Tour
Children can explore the Baci Perugina chocolate factory. Tours are offered in English (and include tastings!). Reservations are required.
baciperugina.com/uk/en
Grand Tour Rando Cycle Path, near Terni
Starting from the Marmore Waterfall in Terni, the Grand Tour Rando is a series of long-distance cycling routes taking in tourist points of interests through the RiverBlack Lower Valley and the Medium Tiber Valley. You can cover as much or as little as you like.
Carsulae Roman Ruins, near Terni
Just north of Terni, the ruins of Carsulae were once a thriving Roman town laying on the Via Flaminia route (the Roman road that connected Rome with the Adriatic town of Ravenna). Although not as impressive as Popeii, Carsulae is an excellent example of Roman city planning with some of the city’s major features clearly visible: the forum, basilica, theatre, amphitheatre, ceremonial city gate and paved and guttered streets.
Cascata delle Marmore (Marmore Waterfalls), near Terni
These spectacular waterfalls date back to Roman times and, at 165m, are the tallest manmade waterfalls in the world. Plumes of mist rise from the verdant hillside as the waters crash down. Just outside Terni and well worth a visit.
marmorefalls.it
Ferentillo Cliff Rock Climbing, near Terni
Close to Marmore Falls, the Ferentillo Cliff is one of Europe’s most well-known and popular rock climbing destinations. There’s a wide choice of climbing routes for all levels of proficiency, from beginner to expert.
Valnerina White Water Rafting
The Valnerina is Umbria’s white water rafting mecca. Several companies run rafting, kayaking, canyoning and other (wet) excursions along and around the Nera and Corno rivers. Arrone is a good departure point for canoe and rafting excursions. You must be over 18.
raftingmarmore.com
Dunarobba Fossil Forest
Dunarobba’s fossilised trees are more than two million years old and it is considered one of the most unique paleontological sites in the world. There is a visitors’ centre and a Paleobotanic Centre (approx. 30 minutes’ drive south of Todi).
+39 0744 940348 | forestafossile.it | Closed Mondays
Local Wine
The best wines hail from the gentle hills north east of Todi, where you’ll also find Torgiano’s interesting Museo del Vino.
+39 075 988 0200 | lungarotti.it/fondazione/muvit
Perugia Golf Club, Central Umbria
Located just 6km from Perugia’s Old Town centre, this 18 hole members’ course spans gently undulating parkland (par 72). Play possible at all times; club and buggy hire available.
+39 075 517 22 04 | golfclubperugia.it
Lamborghini Country Club, Central Umbria
Created by the inventor of the famous motor car, this 9 hole golf course sits between Panicale and Lake Trasiemeno, covering 30 hectares of Umbrian countryside (par 36).
+39 075 83 75 82 | golf.tenutalamborghini.it
Food Shopping
Todi has a good selection of supermarkets, which are generally open Monday to Saturday (9am to 1pm and from 4-8pm). There is also a butchers opposite Banca Popolare Spoleto.
The Il Forno di Izzalini bakery, in Izzalini, is renowned for its traditional fresh bread. It’s on the ground floor of a fairly anonymous looking building, but worth seeking out if you’re in the area.
Please call first to check restaurants and museums are open, and check the relevant government guidance before travelling.
No responsibilty can be accepted by Scott Williams for any issues that may arise as a result of the enclosed recommendations and information.